2008/09/10
italy travel train
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Train travel in Italy is cheap compared to surrounding countries. But there's a catch: major rail lines in Italy tend to have a vast ridership and seats during "rush hours" can be difficult to find on Italian trains. We can offer tips that'll get you over this hurdle. But first, the basics on train travel in Italy.
Types of Trains in Italy
We'll list the types of trains by cost and speed, expensive and fast trains first.
Eurostar (ES or Treni Eurostar Italia)Italy's premier train, not to be confused with the Eurostar that plies the English channel (the Italian Eurostar was first to claim the name). Seat reservations on Eurostar Italia are manditory. Eurostar travels swiftly between major Italian cities.
Intercity and the newer Intercity Plus trainsRelatively fast trains that run the length of Italy, stopping at the large cities. First and second class service is available. First class coaches offer slightly better seats and are generally less populated. Seat reservations are compulsary on the Intercity Plus trains, and the fee is included in the ticket price.
Diretto and interregionali (Direct and Inter-Regional Trains)These are the local trains, the interregionali the faster of the two types. They are cheap and usually reliable--but seats can be hard to find on major routes, especially in August or holiday periods. Consider first class, asking for Prima Classe, per favore, it's less likely to be full.
Finding your destination on the train schedules
In every train station there are both white and yellow/orange train schedules displayed. For departing trains, check the yellow/orange colored poster. It will tell you the route, the major intermediate stops, the the times the trains run. Be sure to check the notes column; expect schedule changes for weekends and holidays (there are generally fewer trains that run on weekends).
Buying an Italian Train Ticket
There are a number of ways to buy a train ticket in Italy.
You can go to a ticket window at the station equipped with the time and destination of the train you want to take, the number of tickets you need, the class of the ticket (primo or secundo).
You can use a ticket machine if the station has them. These are pretty easy to use, and you can avoid long lines at the ticket window.
You can buy a ticket from a travel agent if they're equipped to handle train tickets. An extra fee will usually be added to the price.
You can also buy train tickets online and see train schedules online at Trenitalia.
If I'm traveling by train using point-to-point tickets along the way, I usually check the station I'm arriving at for trains to my next destination. If it's a popular destination, I might buy a ticket right then to be assured of getting the train I want.
Note that a ticket buys you transportation on a train, it doesn't necessarily mean you'll get a seat on that train. If you find that your train is crowded and you can't find a seat in second class, you may try to find a conductor and ask if your ticket can be upgraded to first class.
Boarding your Train
Once you have a ticket, you can head out to your train. In Italian, the tracks are called binari. In smaller stations where the trains go through the station you'll have to go underground using the sottopassagio or underpassage to get to a track that isn't Binario uno or track number one. Larger stations like Milano Centrale, where the trains pull into the station rather than passing through, you'll see the trains head-on, with signs on each track indicating the next expected train and its departure time
But before you go to your train--validate that train ticket! Just before you board your train, find the yellow box like the one shown in the upper right and insert the end of your ticket. This prints the time and date of the first use of your ticket, and makes it valid for the journey. There are stiff fines for not validating your ticket. If you forget, try pleading that you're just a dumb tourist. It has worked before, but it works less and less as time passes.
Once you find your train, just board it. You will probably have to show your ticket to a conductor once during your journey--so keep it where you can get to it. Usually there are racks above the seats for luggage. Sometimes there are dedicated shelves near the ends of each coach for your larger baggage.
It's customary to greet fellow passengers when you sit down. A simple buon giorno will do nicely. If you want to know if a seat is vacant, simply say Occupato? or E libero?.
At Your Destination
Train stations are bustling places, especially in large cities. Be careful about your baggage and wallet.
Most train stations are centrally located and surrounded by hotels. It's easy to adapt a carefree approach to traveling, especially in the off season.
Enjoy your Italian train travel. Never traveled by train in Europe? See a Flash Video: Riding the Rails in Europe.
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